JR ~ My question is on trousers, particularly, how large should the opening at the bottom of the leg be? I've read a few things, I think Flusser said 2/3 the size of your shoe, Boyer gave some dimensions in Eminently Suitable, maybe somewhere around 11"? What's your take?
I have a couple issues that bring this to light. First, I have pretty thick legs, mostly from genetics but with a helping hand from power lifting. This leaves my thighs and calves more or less enormous, and I struggle with a lot of RTW "tailored" styles, especially any with any decent taper, most get caught on my calves either when I put them on or when I'm seated and the ride up. Secondly, I wear size 13 shoe, and a few pants with a drastic taper leaves my feet waggling around like clown shoes. That's where I think Flusser hit's the mark with his 2/3 shoe size, but at the same time I want to draw a nice line.
While were on the topic, do you know of any RTW brands that would fit a more muscular legged man? I've tried a few, can get in J Crew but I don't like their low rise. Suit Supply and LE Tailored are both more like sausage skin than pants. Would like to try O'Connell's for their higher rise, or J Press.
Your question/situation is a common one which I deal with in measuring dozens a men weekly. There are some options, but unfortunately not many that won't require effort. If you move to a straight cut or fuller leg pant you run the risk of the knee/bottom being too wide. This actually isn't all that bad since bottoms can be tapered as necessary. I routinely taper my trousers below the knee to my preferred width which is 8'. I wear a size 9 and this indeed satisfies the 2/3 shoe rule for me.
The idea is to create a clean line from hip to toe without interruption at the back of the knee which is an indicator of a less than suitable knee/bottom width, or billowing which indicates a more than suitable knee/bottom width. In my opinion a man your height and shoe size, an 11" bottom is far too wide. This would give you a 22" inch circumference which is quite large. I'd suggest something in the 9-10" range which will offer a flattering taper without exaggeration.
Of course, this will necessitate a competent tailor and/or patience buying and trying off the rack options. I do favor pants with a higher rise, but this does not always correlate to the desired taper. Classically, if you are wearing trousers with a higher rise they will be accompanied by a fuller leg since they style is most likely influenced by old world lines. Short of full custom give these brands a try.
Panta Signature Line
Bill's Khaki's Standard Fit
Here are some visuals to help. The first shows a trouser cut to fit the from of the natural curve of the leg at the calf by Asian tailor B & Tailor. However, this is only achieved through bespoke. The other photos are of Mr. Jo Ha; an Asian clothier/tailor at Subskin with similar issues as you. His trousers fully accommodate his powerful legs while maintaining a lean silhouette. You'd do well to use this as inspiration.