Break It Down
When it comes to the long and short of a man’s leg the most important factor is the “break”, or how the trouser leg falls on top of the shoe at the ankle. This break can add or subtract height, increase or decrease length, and garner looks from others wondering if you’re waiting for a flood. Follow this guide the next time your tailor is hemming your pants.
Short Break – Little or no horizontal crease in the front of the trouser leg at the ankle when standing. This is best for shorter men who want to maximize their height. The short break should fall to the top of the shoe while standing and will show hosiery while walking and sitting so be sure to wear proper over-the-calf socks.
Medium Break – This is the middle of the road and where most men of average height will benefit. There should be one slight horizontal break in the front of the trouser at the ankle. This break will fall to the top of the shoe and cover the ankle and sock completely and will show minimal hosiery while walking. Ask your tailor for a one inch break.
Long Break - Reserved for above average height men and should be used minimally. This break minimizes the length of the leg and creates a shorter silhouette. It covers the ankle, sock, and top of the shoe completely and shows minimal sock while walking and sitting.
Here are some examples: